Wet through in Kalmar — Terrace Edition

Words: Jonas Zöller

Images: Jonas Zöller

Shot on film.

You have no idea how good this soaking wet day in Kalmar felt just a day after heat of the World Cup final.

Kalmar is the first stop on our trip through Sweden before we head on to Stockholm.

They call rain ‘pennies from heaven’. It had rained a whole bank.

By the time I reach the campsite to wait for my taxi, I’m already so soaked that I briefly consider turning back.

The quiet excitement of finally watching club football again is enough to kill that thought before it has a chance to grow.

The stadium sits in an industrial estate beside the motorway. A metal box surrounded by IKEA, petrol stations and retail park car parks.

©Jonas Zöller/ Terrace Edition. Kalmar FF vs Malmö FF.

Once I take a closer look, I can’t help but smile. A Swedish fast food chain has a restaurant built into the stadium itself. So much for football romance.

The supporters making their way towards the turnstiles make up for it, though. Shirts and scarves disappear beneath rain ponchos and fishermen’s jackets. A strange but somehow fitting sight.

On the pitch, Kalmar take on one of Sweden’s biggest clubs, Malmö. The away end is well filled and even parts of the main stand are taken over by sky blue shirts.

From the very first minute the Malmö fans put on a brilliant display. Every now and then another flare lights up the away end, reminding me just how much I’ve missed all of this.

Whenever I manage to take my eyes off the away support, I notice a completely different atmosphere among the Kalmar fans in the main stand.

Those sheltering from the relentless rain beneath the concourses seem more interested in conversation than the match itself.

Small groups gather everywhere and even the stewards in their fluorescent yellow jackets join in, hot dogs in hand.

Those who stay out in the stands hide beneath ponchos and hoods.

Around me there are just as many elderly supporters as younger ones, giving the Guldfågeln Arena the feel of a Sunday league ground, in the very best way possible.

The football follows a similar pattern. The quality might not be the highest, but the game is entertaining from start to finish.

When Malmö grab an equaliser just after the hour mark in the second-half, to make it 2-2, the songs from the away end echo around the stadium once again.

By the time I make my way back to the campsite I’m completely drenched, but just as fulfilled.