Japan football: Ichizu — Terrace Edition

Words: Dave Harry

Images: Dave Harry

Rivers flow through Tokyo as freely as beer flows pre-match. Take the Tamagawa, it connects many points in Greater Tokyo and acts as the dividing line between Kawasaki and Tokyo.

There are many historical sites that can be seen from it, but I’m not just here to see them, I’ve got tickets for the ‘Tamagawa Classico’, a passionate derby contested by Kawasaki Frontale and FC Tokyo

The game is a sell-out. I set my alarm to 4am UK time to ensure I could have a chance to get some of the handful that make general sale and thankfully I did.

As a contest it may not leap out in the way Liverpool v Man United does but having done both games I can tell you the fans are every bit as passionate and they provide their clubs a backing as good as any I’ve witnessed.

Its full of soul and full of heart, but there’s no sign of malice. The Ultras have designated enclosures and there is an away end, but some Tokyo fans sit among the home fans without fear of violence.

©Dave Harry/ Terrace Edition. Kawasaki Frontale fans vs FC Tokyo.

There’s no pyro either, but the colours and the banners look brilliant and the singing is relentless, neither set of fans lets-up with the chants.

Clearly, I have no idea what they are singing about for most of the time but the visiting fans sometimes belt out ‘You’ll Never Walk Alone’ in near perfect English. No doubt some on the River Mersey would be proud.

FC Tokyo win the contest 1-0. Both sides have goals disallowed to VAR – even in a foreign field you’re never far from the shite of VAR – Kawasaki particularly cruelly as what would’ve been an injury-time leveller is chalked off.

At full-time, the players bow, the fans sing-on and cheerily pose for photos, indeed one group of female fans insist I photograph their very Japanese mascot charms which they line-up to ensure I can capture them properly.

There’s a warmth and kindness that’s near unmatched and that extends to all 6 of the games that I did on my trip to Japan, across levels 1, 5, 6 and 9.

©Dave Harry/ Terrace Edition. Kyoto Tachibana v Mitsibushi Motors Kyoto.

An early 940am Sunday morning kick-off at Kyoto Tachibana didn’t stop a small group of ultras from making a noisy din and free from the baggage of the “no photo” European culture, they actively want to be seen, heard and photographed – they’re proud of their team and identity and want others to know about it.

Back on the Tamagawa River, I watch Nankastu SC. It’s a lovely setting and the Toyko Skytree (tower) is a backdrop behind one of the goals.

The club chairman is Magna illustrating legend Yōichi Takahashi and the merchandise is designed by him.

The Nankatsu support sing throughout and help their team come back from a goal down to win 2-1 late on against Ryutsu Keizai Dragons.

The away fans sat behind me are lovely and pretty calm about the defeat, as are their players – they go and bow to the home fans as well as their own at full-time.

©Dave Harry/ Terrace Edition. Nankatsu SC floodlight.

As I leave the ground the kindly stewards bow and say “nice to meet you” in English, a small gesture but its those things that leave such positive impressions.

In Osaka, two girls are there to watch their boyfriends play – one does a disco dance for them when he scores on the pitch – and they have a conversation with me in broken English, there’s a warmth and curiosity that’s charming.

Behind the ground, the ferris wheel from the Osaka 70 Expo goes around, making for another unique backdrop.

But its at my final game, FC Tokyo v Avispa Fukuoka that the impressions I’d built up about the supporters are affirmed; the relentless singing, the colour, the welcome and the passion is near without rival.

The Avispa fans are 26hours drive away from Tokyo but over 1,000 of them make the journey for a night game, and they provide support so noisy I’m sorry they lose it.

©Dave Harry/ Terrace Edition. Avispa Fukuoka fans at FC Tokyo.

The following day I walk the Asakusa part of the River Sumida. It’s a beautiful old part of the city. The sun is pounding down and in the distance I see what looks like the biggest beer I’ve ever seen and think it must be a mirage…

…it isn’t, not quite. It’s the Asaski brewery building and it’s designed to look like a Godzilla sized beer. I get one.

As I drink, I reflect on the trip. Japanese football is as good as it gets, it matches the greatest of atmospheres alongside the best and friendliest of cultures – the people have been amazing throughout.

At FC Tokyo I went to get a half-time beer. I’d left my wallet on my seat. In most other places I’d have expected it to be stolen but not here; I went back to my seat expecting my wallet to still be there and it was – the noise and passion is only surpassed by the respect they have for all; win lose or draw a guest is a guest and everyone is treated as such. Enjoy the game, enjoy your visit.

Japan truly is one of the great civilisations and its football culture is similarly exceptional.