Galatasaray Goals — Terrace Edition

Words: Federico Farcomeni

Images: Federico Farcomeni

A sea of red and orange cuts through Beyoglu on Istiklal Caddesi, from Taksim square down to the Tünel funicular stop, as the “nostalgic” (sic) tramway tinkles its way through.

Despite big flags being hung virtually everywhere in Istanbul and showing who is boss, this is a Galatasaray area par excellence.

The number “25” is proudly displayed, indicating the number of Turkish championships won, making it five stars on top of the club badge (clearly, one added for every five league titles).

Twenty-five is a recurring figure – a detail is embroidered on the neck of the new white away kit commemorating the 25th anniversary of the Uefa Cup won against Arsenal in Copenhagen – 23:19:32 is the exact time of 17 May 2000 when Gheorghe Popescu netted the winning penalty which catapulted Fatih Terim’s team into eternity.

The team bus also reminds bystanders “we are the best” with the two European trophies well exhibited on its side – a feat never achieved by any other Turkish club.

©Federico Farcomeni/ Terrace Edition. Beyoglu.

This was indeed embedded into the club’s inception as founders reckoned that “our goal is to play in a collective way like Englishmen, to signify a certain colour and a name and to beat non-Turkish teams.”

Numbers 9 and 10 are important figures at this club of goals, worn by centre-forward supremo Metin Oktay who netted over 300 times for the club and whose shirt is the header image of this article.

Gala are a club of change too with the old Ali Sami Yen stadium demolished and redeveloped into a business park.

You can still get line 2 of the metro and get off in Sisli (Meceidiyeköy, in fact, is another metro stop), and then the spirit of the old ground will draw you there.

Where 22,000 fans roared their team on now lies a modern building complex, the Turun Centre, where developers Rams Park are also investing – their logo displayed next to the Galatasaray one is the only clue that the Lions’ den was once here.

©Federico Farcomeni/ Terrace Edition. Galatasaray SK musem.

These days, the new Ali Sami Yen can hold more than 52,000 and the sound barrier can be broken even more, and even though it isn’t quite as loud as the old place, it maintains a presence.

Of course, when the whole crowd sings in unison, clap their hands or holds aloft their scarves singing Gala’s anthem, your spine will be tingling yet the moment which gave me shivers the most was when I noticed the big banners hung behind both goals: #FreePalestine #LetGazaBabiesLive and “Humanity lost conscience in Gaza”.

On match-day, you can bump into red and yellow shirts virtually everywhere and it’s worth to visit Galata, the area where the team originates its name from (sarayi means “palace” instead).

Before crossing Galata Bridge where fishermen are hanging onto their fishing rods 24/7, it’s nice to grab a balik ekmek, a grilled fish sandwich.

Once you’ve crossed the bridge, Galata Port with its bars, restaurants and shops is a luxury experience but not as authentic as walking up to the Galata Tower and maybe having one of Salt Bae restaurant’s juicy burgers.

And as kick-off time approaches, thousands start to flock to the new Ali Sami Yen Complex with Victor Osimhen in their sight – masks, scarves and shirts with the number 45 are virtually everywhere.

©Federico Farcomeni/ Terrace Edition. Galatasaray SK.

“Solo il Gala” (only Gala) is the motto which has been inspired by the headline of Italian daily Corriere dello Sport and the club are using it to sell official merchandise in black and gold, ultrAslan are displaying a banner in Italian too.

The negotiations to bring the Nigerian striker back to Istanbul have endured three long months, and people are just ecstatic to celebrate the most expensive transfer in the history of Turkish football.

President Dursun Özbek has put on a show with the signing ceremony taking place in midfield and involving also recruit Leroy Sané who has just joined from Bayern Munich on a free as the loudspeaker blasts Boney M’s “Sunny”.

It’s a celebration within the celebration, as the club are also unveiling their third kit, inspired by the tradition and elegance of Galatasaray High School (Lisesi).

Not only that – Osimhen’s presentation video was shot on the namesake island, and Ilkay Gundogan’s orchestra in the video shot for his unveiling, is set in the stunning namesake university. The magnitude of Galatasaray as an institution of the country is really palpable.

Outside, Rams Park looks like the Emirates in London and the surrounding area crowded with skyscrapers resembles Paseo de la Castellana environs in Madrid, if it wasn’t for the hazardous motorway which runs right next to the ground it gives the feel of a concrete monster at sleep, awakened by the supporters.

After the match, I got a sample of what was life before 1875, which was when Tünel was opened, the underground funicular connecting the Bosphorus to uptown (actually, the second-oldest subterranean urban railway in the world).

The French architect who had the idea, had seen people sweating on a daily basis commuting up and down the city – shame I realized this 150 years later.

Walking was worth it though, as I spotted places of interest for the local Italian community, before visiting the club’s museum, a mix of baroque elegance and sports modernity.

Pennants, shirts, cups, medals, pictures and other memorabilia (including football, basketball, volleyball, rowing and even sailing) are all displayed inside the old post office facing the Galatasaray Lisesi, whose history dates back to 1481 and where French, a diplomatic language, has been the dominant language for many years.

(To this day, all those who have graduated from Gala High School know French).

The logo sketches and the geometrical intersections depicted on old copybooks were fascinating as the emblem evolved from the original Arabic letters – the perfect blend of tradition and modernity.

With five stars on top.

©Federico Farcomeni/ Terrace Edition. Galatasaray flag Bosphorus.

©Federico Farcomeni/ Terrace Edition. Galatasaray SK fans en route.

Federico is on X: @fedefarco and Instagram: @fede.farco.

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